Time lapse not taking pictures

I just got back from testing this unit out at the beach and am so disappointed. I had it running for 20 minutes, it was beeping, which i thought meant it was triggering photos, but when I got back my memory card didn't have a single image. When I use the Test Fire it makes a beep, but does not cause the shutter on my Canon D6 to actually take a picture. Is there a step by step guide for resetting the controller or otherwise getting a 5 minute time lapse scene with keyframes to work. I feel quite disappointed to spend so much on something and have so many problems with it.


  • I completely agree with you.. Its been few months since i got asix360 but still i have not been able to take single timelapse with it. Everytime you go the location and you have different challenges with Asix360. Sometimes it feels like to just throw asix360 in storage and forget about it.
  • edited November 2014
    The cinemoco controller should fire a Canon 6D with no issue. First, make sure your lens is set to manual focus. Auto-focus may fail to find a focus point and not fire a photo. Using your camera's manual, bulb, or shutter priority (Tv) mode is helpful to make sure the exposure time is constant. Also make sure your camera is set to fire a single photo (not a burst or delay).

    Quick steps for timelapse:
    1. Connect camera cable and set up camera (manual focus, manual exposure, single photo)
    2. Reset controller (the last option in the CON menu, Reset Settings)
    3. Go to GEN menu and set Record to Timelapse
    4. Go to CAM menu and set Cam Type
    5. Go to Home screen and scroll motor to desired end point with the left/right arrows, then scroll down to Set End Point by hitting the right arrow
    7. Scroll to desired start point then Set Start Point
    8. Set Exposure* (make sure this value is equal or larger than the exposure on your camera. This is especially important for a shoot-move-shoot move so the camera is not moving while exposing.)
    9. Set Record Time (10:00), Playback Time (10s), Playback FPS (25), Move Type (S-M-S), and Ramp (50%)
    10. Go to home screen and press play

    You'll end up with a set of photos that can now be compiled into a timelapse video. ( http://forum.cinetics.com/index.php?p=/discussion/32/creating-a-video-from-timelapse-stills )

    *Exposure needs to be less than the interval time shown in the top left corner. The interval is equal to record time / (playback time * playback FPS). If exposure time is larger than the interval, the defined shot is not possible. It is good practice to make the interval time longer than the exposure time so the motors have time to move and the camera has time to write an image. For fast timelapse shots, use a fast exposure time.

    I'm confident you'll enjoy your Axis360 kit once you learn more about it. Please check out the how to videos if you have not already: http://blog.cinetics.com/?p=431 <-- There is lots of good info in there.

    I hope this is helpful!
  • @gstockton

    C'mon guys! Be honest!
    The axis has had some 'birth-problems'. Some are still there, some has been corrected.

    But it seems that both of you have to realize that a part of the problem (and I think the lager part) is in front of the gear. That means: You have to learn how to use it! Dont blame your faults to the gear.

    You wrote: it was beeping, which i thought meant it was triggering photos
    How long do you use a DSLR? Any DSLR I know makes a sound when the mirror is working and normaly there is a red light after the picture was taken (writing data to the memorycard). If you sit 20 minutes beside your camera and it makes 'beep' (? the Canon 6D does not make a beeb? also the aixis360 don't) and afterwarts you blame it to the axis that no pictures were taken, I have to think that You have done a mistake, not the gear.

    You wrote: Its been few months since i got asix360 but still i have not been able to take single timelapse with it. Everytime you go the location and you have different challenges with Asix360.

    First: When you have a gear for month' and you have month' time to test it, to figure out how it works, than it seems that you might doing wrong.
    If I would buy a gear and didnt get it to work, I would try to get it. That means training.
    Think about this:
    When doing professional camera-jobs and you really are in to many different gears, would you go out to a client with a new gear? No, you wont. You would test it till you can use it quite blind.

    I also had to learn how it works, what it can do and what not. I wrote to cinetics some times to tell my issues, to talk about improvments I would like to have. I also wrote down what I dislike.
    But I had to learn and that takes some time. First I also thought there were some issues with the axis, but I realized that some (the bigger part) of these problems were caused by me, my mistakes and me as beeing a 'newbe'.

    @vishal09: Dont you think there might be some misusement or not enough training, when you always have troubles 'on set'?
    "but still i have not been able to take single timelapse" sounds like you have not been able to take timelapses, not the gear. Maybe the gear could have done it, but you didnt treat it well.

    Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe both of you have gotten a gear with production-problems. Maybe you have done everything right, but the axis360 is doing a bad job.
    But that's just a little 'Maybe'.

    The bigger is: Maybe you just should test you gear at home, step by step as the videos show and as Justin has wrote down.
    The axis is not a buy and go gear. It is modular-constructed and complex in some ways. But this makes it so ideal in many ways. You can fit it just to your needs. But you have to know how.

    And here I do have a idea for you:

    Do very fast testings. You can get a result after some minutes. That means you will get a feedback quite fast.
    How to:
    - Sit you down within your room were you feel confortable and take you some time.
    - Set you camera to about 1/1000 (or any other really short time)
    - Set the axis to to produce only a 3 seconds timelapse (which means only 75 pictures are taken)
    - Set the intervall short, maybe 2 seconds (depending on the move. If it moves far between to pictures take longer times)

    So you will get a timelapse within less than 4 minutes after the setting.
    So you can test different settings, motor-movements and others.
    Write down what you have set and check if it workes well. If it dont, try to find the reason. You can always reset the controllers and start at point-zero.

    If the axis workes with such little tests, and you know how it workes and to use it, try bigger tests. If they will work than you can go to great locations, to clients or to a set.

    I hope these words have not been to harsh, but the axis only is on auto-pilot when it workes, but YOU have do get it started.

    (And remember: Here within the forum you will surely find more people with issues. But you will not find all these who love the gear and get great results. And I think they are more than the people here at the forum.

    But after all:
    You can write down any(!!) question about the gear, about timelapses, about 'how-to'.
    You also can write down what went wrong, anything that dont works.
    You can post pictures or videos of your issues. But please try to discribe your problems as clear as possible.
    As long as I have whatched this forum cinetics always tryed to help.

    Truly hope that you will get it to work well. Maybe it will help you to do such 'short tests'.
    And please, when you went out and capture a great timelapse: Show it to us!


  • Thanks Justin, am going to print these instructions out and take them with me today. Hopefully we'll have better luck. I found some videos (unrelated to Cinetics) on you tube which explain manual focus and some other settings for optimal time lapse. It appears there are some things I need to learn about my camera. For example when you say set the exposure on the camera, not real sure where that is. The value in the controller says <= 1/15s I'm unable to get that value to change by changing left right, but see nothing like that in the Quickmenu on the D6.

    I think it might be a good idea for you guys to make a few youtube videos for some of the supported cameras like Nikon and Canon, since many of your customers are likely interested in doing timelapse, a video with the Quickmenu from Canon, how it should be setup and what needs to be set on the Axix360.

    Thanks for trying to help solve my problem.
  • Adamus, there are some of us just getting into photography, don't bash us. This device is complicated and lacks clear documentation. By the way, I have been testing this out at home on my kitchen table. I took it to a noisy pier yesterday, and also you should know I am almost completely deaf, so not the most ideal situation. I'll take responsibility for not completely reading the manual that I was given a link to, but the menus on the controller are not intuitive, it could be much simpler. So, thanks for giving us all your expert opinion.
  • @gstockton:
    I didnt want to bash you at all. Sorry, that you got me so.

    It's cool that you want to start taking great pictures and beautyfull timelapses.
    And as you allready wrote you are new to this.
    So it's way to much to tell you by writing down letters. Sorry, I raelly would help you, but this is just to much.

    There are great tutorials about getting started with a DSLR.
    The cool thing about it - and also gear like the axis360 - is that you can use it the way you want to. A DSLR is made to set everything the way you want it. (There are also automatics which can set everthing quite right, but when you get used to it, you self can set it even more perfect than the automatic).
    It is really fun to work with gear that lets you the freedom to set it to your needs, gear that lets you the freedom to decide how the result will be like.

    But this needs lots of learning, training and working.

    I would recommend to get used to the mauall settings within a DSLR. It aint so many ( only four relevant: apature, focus, ISO and exposure-time). But all effect an image and all are working together.

    One example:
    When you use automatics, the picture will be not to dark and not to lighten.
    You can set you camera also manually to get a good exposured image.
    But there are diffferent ways to get it right. And these different ways all have there benefits and disadvantages.
    Just one example:
    You can open your lens wide: Lots of light will get into the camera and on the sensor within a short time.
    You can also close the lens and less light will get into it. So you will need to exposure a longer time to get a picture which is as bright as the other one.

    If you use automatic-mode the camera will choose the method.
    If ou choose the method you will have the possibility to freeze a picture (wide open lens, short exposure time) or to get it smooth or even faded (closed lens and long exposure).
    Both results in equal bright images, but totaly different pictures.

    Sorry, that I can not tell you everthing about fotografy. Just try to find some of the great beginners guides.

    And according to your question above:
    When choosing 'M' at the Canon you are free to set everything.
    You have one dail-weel and one disk. Here you can set everything.
    Here you set the exposure-time.
    Try this:
    Set the apature to f5.6 (inside your camera with M-mode). Than set your exposure from 1/500 step by step to 1 sec. Check the results.
    Then set your exposure to 1/20 and set the apature form f5.6 step by step to f.18.

    Then you will learn a lot within a short time.

    Have fun! Its great to have gear that gives you freedom. Just learn to use it.

  • Im in agreement with Adamus. When I got my 2axis 360, I basically set it all up in the living room. Then proceeded to test the controller, then add the camera, review the results. Sure I have some issues with still with programming that I find upside down, but the unit does work IF you get with how IT wants to be programmed along with making sure your camera is set up proper for the trigger. I would not take the unit on location and expect anything unless I already accomplished it in a test. Dont be hard on yourself, or the equipment. Take it in. Program it to do something. ERASE IT, and program it again to confirm you are getting the settings right.

  • Here are some better results from yesterday.
  • edited November 2014
    @gstockton The one key thing that will make it all make sense is understanding that for timelapse, you want to take control of your camera and not let your camera control you.

    With that said... The elements that equate to getting a picture are:
    1) F Stop setting of lens
    2) ISO (speed of camera sensor setting)
    3) Shutter duration
    4) Lens filters

    With any of these settings, each change allows half as much or twice as much light during and exposure. Example:

    Lens F Stop set to F4
    Camera ISO set to 400
    Shutter Duration set to 1 second
    No Filter on lens (ND or Polarizing filters cut down on light)

    In this hypothetical example, a perfectly exposed picture was taken. Now the easy part... If you want to change any of the settings on the Lens, the ISO or the Shutter, you have to compensate with the remaining settings.

    Changing from F4 to F2.8 will let in TWICE as much light.
    So you have to shorten the exposure by half to a half second
    Or set the ISO to 200. Usually you have a priority in mind, like milky soft images rather than still robotic sterile pictures, or controlling depth of field or limiting the noise of what ISO you use.

    So for example, you want people on the board walk to be sort of blurred in movement more. You would want to increase the shutter time from what it was to MORE. Since you are leaving the shutter open longer, you over expose, so you have to compensate by either changing your F Stop to let less light in, or change your ISO to a slower speed and of course, the last trick is to control how much light can get in the lens with using ND Filters.

    The beauty of digital cameras are that you can go full manual, snap a picture. Look at the exposure, then start walking the settings (ISO, FStop, Shutter, Filter) towards more or less light. You only need PROGRAM shooting for birthday parties! MANUAL mode will be your friend with timelapse. You can even snap a PROGRAM shot (during daytime), look at the image data from the camera and it will tell you the starting point for a good exposed shot. It will tell you Fstop, Shutter speed, ISO. But in manual mode, you control how crisp or blurry you want it. Or how much depth of field is needed. With four different ways to control the amount of light during your exposure, there are many ways to take the same picture yet the settings will not be the same.... what will be the same is if the SUM of those settings still equals a properly exposed image.

    Hope this helps.


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